Does your brake pedal feel spongy? Even with new rotors and pads, you just don’t feel the max performance? Many times, this is caused from air being trapped in you brake lines. This is usually do to high heat flex in the brake hoses. Brakes get hot, and when they are hot, your fluids are too. This will cause fluid vapor, and will give you the weak feel in your brakes.
Here is a simple procedure to bleed your brakes.
Tools and Supplies:
-10mm box-end wrench
–Ate Super blue brake fluid
-10-inch of 3/16 inch clear plastic tubing
-Disposable bottle for waste fluid
-One assistant (The Pumper)
-Make sure the entire vehicle is on jackstands and supported.
-Check the brake fluid reservoir. Add fluids if necessary to ensure the level is above the seam of the reservoir. **NEVER LET THE RESERVOIR BECOME EMPTY AT ANYTIME DURING THIS BLEED PROCESS**
Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver.
Bleeding patterns vary for different cars—consult the owner’s manual and/or service manual for bleeding order as well as DOT-grade fluid recommendation and any ABS-specific procedures. Rear-wheel drive vehicles are bled beginning at the wheel that’s farthest from the master cylinder, then gradually working in: typically right rear, then left rear, then right front and finally left front. Front-wheel drives are sometimes bled in a diagonal pattern.
-Find someone to help you on the Bleed. He/She can sit in the car while pressing on the Brake Pedal.
Place one end of the plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle. The Pumper begins by slowly applying pressure to the brake pedal while The Dumper opens the bleeder. (Note, the bleeder screw is usually 10mm and only needs to be ¼ turned to release the fluids) This forces fluid through the system. The Pumper alerts The Dumper to close the bleeder before the end of the pedal stroke to avoid damaging the master cylinder. The cycle continues until no more air bubbles are visible in the tubing and bottle. Remember to top off the master cylinder with our SUPER BLUE BRAKE FLUID after every few pumps and dumps. Keep the lids on both the master and brake-fluid bottle to minimize sloshing and the opportunity for air to invade the fluid.
Once all air is bled, it makes sense to keep bleeding until fresh Blue Brake Fluid emerges from the bleeder. When all wheels have been bled (and also the proportioning/combination valve in some vehicles), top off the master cylinder a final time, replace its lid and discard any remaining “new” brake fluid properly along with the old fluid—otherwise, moisture will accumulate inside the unsealed bottle during storage. Pump the pedal a few times to make sure that it’s at least as firm, if not firmer, as in its pre-bleed state. Finally, road-test the brakes in a vacant area to verify they’re functioning properly before driving in real-world conditions.